Cartagena came as a huge surprise to me, having been told that it is boring and unsafe. My experience on the other hand was that of joyous locals teaching you salsa moves, colourful neighbourhoods, and dreamy white-sand Caribbean beaches. The heat was rather overwhelming but nothing that couldn’t be handled with a Cholado in hand. How so many Colombians can wear jeans in this heat is beyond me!
Our visit collided with a free Reggaeton festival held on the streets of the Old Town. A nice change from dancing the nights away in salsa and rooftop bars. Trying to figure out what to do, eat, where to stay, let your hair loose, and what on Earth Cholado is? Read on and find out.
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WHAT TO DO: THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO CARTAGENA
Explore Cartagena’s Neighbourhoods.
Cartagena has a reputation for being unsafe. Hence most travellers stick to exploring only two of the colonial city’s neighbourhoods. The Old Town surrounded by the city walls and Getsemani. These are also the locations most popular to stay in.
The cobblestoned streets of the Old Town are filled with restaurants, bars, and yellow colonial buildings. Visit the Museo de Arte Moderno. Admire the fruit ladies of Cartagena dressed in colourful dresses, balancing a giant basket on top of their head, or watch dancers at the Plaza Bolivar. Both will be expecting tips. There are also free walking tours if you wish to learn more about the town’s history.
I much preferred the younger and most colourful neighbourhood of Cartagena, Getsemani. Expect house walls covered in vibrant street art, delicious street food on Trinity Square, and many restaurants.
Mercado Bazurto.
Do you want to get an insight into the real Cartagena? Then wander through the maze of market stalls, discovering mouth-watering fruits and other delicious local food. Be mindful with your belongings in the crowds as pickpockets are operating. This market can be visited as part of a tour. Although it can easily be explored without a guide. Taxis from the town centre cost around COP 10,000 and take 15-minutes. Cl. 29c Bis #1718, Cartagena, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar
Animal Watching At Parque Del Centenario.
The small park is nothing special until you raise your head towards the sky and patiently wait to spot iguanas, monkeys, and sloths. Locals are wandering around the park offering to show you the creatures’ hiding spots. Expect to cheekily be asked for a tip afterwards.
Playa Blanca.
The true beauty of this coastal area can only be found outside the city. The cramped beaches of Cartagena are far from pretty with skyscrapers towering over you.
The most popular beach and rightfully so is Playa Blanca. This white sand beach away from the city makes you feel like you are on a Caribbean island beach holiday. The almost unnaturally looking bright turquoise water is perfect for a dip. There are also water sport activities, and once the sun has set boats take you out to the sea to swim with plankton. Sounds dreamy right? Read more here.
Pink Sea Of El Salar de Galerazamba.
When researching Cartagena, the pink sea was what I was most excited about. It’s not every day that you find yourself near water that is any other shade of colour than blue.
The pink sea in fact is a salt mine. A natural phenomenon causes the pink colouration. Raindrops break the salt granules and halophilic microalgae producing beta carotene. Really just pretending I fully understand this! Anyway, you can take a “dip” in the shallow water. Be prepared with sandals. The salty ground can cut your feet.
Unfortunately, the pink colour is only prominent from December to April, with the colours being the most intense in February to March. Therefore, I had to put it onto my to-do list for my next Colombia visit. However, I had to mention this place in this ultimate guide to Cartagena for anyone who finds themselves in Cartagena during this time. Let me know your thoughts in the comments.
There is an entrance fee of COP 5,000. The time limitation of the visit is an hour. Opening hours are from 9 am to 4 pm, and on weekends the salt mine opens at 8 am. El Totumo Volcano is on the way to the Pink Sea and can easily be visited on the same day.
Take A Mud Bath Inside El Totumo Volcano.
Ever dreamt of taking a dip inside a volcano? No? I thought so!
El Totumo is located a one-hour drive from Cartagena. The mud bath which allegedly has healing powers can be shared with up to 15 people. Avoid going there by tour and during early hours if you would like to miss the crowds! Unless you like rubbing skin with strangers. Each to their own!
This experience can be combined with a massage for a mere COP 3,000. Once you are covered in mud from head to toe and made it out alive from the deep bath and up the muddy ladder without falling, you will be asked to step into a natural pool to be rubbed clean by a local. This is when you are expected to pay the first COP 3,000 tip of many.
You will also be asked for a tip by the person holding your camera and again if you want your shoes cleaned. There are changing stalls so no need to bare your body to the whole world. You can purchase drinks and snacks but as always it is cheaper to bring your own.
The entrance fee costs COP 4,000. I didn’t make the effort of travelling there myself. I was repeatedly told that the wait is long, and the experience is short and can be scary since the mud is deep. But since this is a rather unique experience and can be combined with visiting the pink sea, I do feel it needs to be mentioned.
How To Get To El Salar de Galerazamba And El Totumo Volcano.
To visit these unusually coloured waters you will have to travel to Galerazamba a small village North-East of Cartagena.
▼ Getsemani and the Old Town – 10-minute by taxi, 30-minute walk.
▼ Berlinas-Marbella Station in Cartagena – COP 22,000, 1 h – 2 h depending on how often the bus stops. Take a local bus towards Barranquilla and ask the driver to stop in Loma de Arena if you want to visit El Salar de Galerazamba or at El Totumo Volcano.
▼ Loma de Arena/ El Totumo – COP 4,000, 15-minutes. Moto-taxis to the Pink Sea in Galerazamba can be taken from either drop off point. Haggle with the drivers for the best price!
►El Salar de Galerazamba And El Totumo Volcano. Follow the same instructions in reverse to return to Cartagena. Remember busses can be flagged down from everywhere in Colombia.
If you are in a group of four, the most convenient and cheapest option is sharing a taxi for COP 150,000. The driver will wait for the agreed time and then drive you back to Cartagena. Vehicles are not allowed to drive to the waterfront. Therefore, motor taxis take visitors to the pink sea for COP 4,000. Although you might be able to walk instead of taking the 10-minute ride.
WHERE TO EAT: THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO CARTAGENA
Street Food.
Try delicious Arepas, Carimañolas which are similar to empanadas, Patacón, a delicious Butifarra sausage; and my favourite Papa Rellena which are filled, mashed up potato balls, YUM.
Vendors can be found around the Old Town, but if you are staying in the Getsemani neighbourhood the chance of you finding yourself around the corner of the Plaza de la Trinidad is highly likely. There are many street vendors offering different dishes. I had incredible Venezuelan food here and it’s more than budget-friendly. 174, Esquina con Calle 29., Cra. 10 #25, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar
HabiVegan.
The only vegan restaurant in town and cheap at only COP 15,000. Centro Historico, San Diego, Calle de los Siete Infantes casa 9-82, Cartagena
Di Silvio Trattoria Getsemani.
As always I had to get my pizza fix and this restaurant is so incredibly good and authentically Italian that we went twice in one day. Don’t judge until you have tried it! Cl. 29 ##9A-08, Cartagena, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar
Coco Club Social.
Would you like to treat yourself? Then head to this French restaurant for Cordon Bleu or steak. The prices were above my usual travel budget, but we all deserve a treat sometimes, right? Calle Gastelbondo No 02-124 Local 8, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar
WHERE TO STAY
Viajero Hostel.
The hostel has a bar with a terrace and regular live music making it perfect for anyone who would like to socialise. They also offer dance classes and breakfast is included. If you book any other locations directly with their reception you should be able to receive a discount.
La Buleka Hostel.
The relatively new hostel has the most varied breakfast, served on a rooftop overlooking the city, I have come across. The dish changes every day from pancakes to scrambled eggs and avocado on toast. You never know what is going to be offered next.
WHERE TO PARTY
Cartagena has a lot to offer in terms of nightlife. Naturally, I need to mention the best bars in this ultimate guide to Cartagena. There are many bustling salsa bars where locals correct your steps, teaching you how to swing those hips. Plenty of clubs have rooftop bars offering views over the glistening city lights with Reggaeton blaring in the background.
Café Havana.
This salsa bar is popular among tourists although the crowd appeared to be mostly locals during the week. There is plenty of space to practice your salsa moves along to the music played by the live salsa band on stage. There is a cover charge of COP 30,000, I didn’t end up having to pay after some discussion. The drink prices are overpriced and make sure to be given the correct change. This place was the most fun I had visited in Cartagena but if you are a serious salsa dancer and expect cheap drinks then this place isn’t for you. Cra. 10 #ESQUINA, Cartagena, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar
Salsa Donde Fidel.
This cosy salsa bar is perfect for drinks and listening to live music but too small to shake your hips, unless you don’t mind bumping into innocent bystanders. Portal de los Dulces, Cra. 4, Cartagena, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar
Crazy Social, Salsa School.
This place generally has a young crowd dancing the night away until 3 am. They offer salsa lessons every day from as early as 10 am. Entry is free before 11 pm. Cra. 7 ##34-23, Cartagena, Provincia de Cartagena, Bolívar
Eivissa.
Do you want to drunkenly dance through the night? Then this club with several floors and a rooftop is for you. Don’t expect anything special but this place does the trick if you want to party the night away in a club at the cost of over-priced drinks. Some hostels hand out wristbands and drink vouchers. Otherwise, you will have to pay an entrance of COP 20,000 which includes a free beer. Calle Portocarrero 7- 33 Piso 4, Cartagena, Bolívar
WHAT TO PACK
Any ultimate guide to Cartagena needs to stress how important it is to purchase a mosquito spray suitable for tropical climate. You will be eaten alive if you don’t protect yourself! Bring enough sun cream and summer clothes.
Be prepared with enough cash for any trips outside of Cartagena. There are no cash points near the beaches or on the islands and cards are rarely accepted.
WHERE TO NEXT
Have you always wanted to get a PADI? Then head to Taganga for cheap diving courses. If you would rather like to trek to a Lost City in the jungle than Santa Marta is the one for you.
Did I do a good job of sharing this ultimate guide to Cartagena and my love for this Caribbean port city? Also, did I mention that I love Cholado? Still no clue what it is? It is a drink/ dessert. The majority consists of crushed ice, with fruit, some condensed milk, and blackberry syrup.
Now go ahead and explore! Try not to lose your towel.
