Greeted by pouring rain and undesirably cold weather the start of my visit to Cusco wasn’t what I expected. Luckily, the sun had decided to make an appearance for most of my time in one of Peru’s biggest cities. The hilly, charming, (surprising) party hotspot had won me over in no time. The sheer amount of activities you can do in Cusco, including numerous trails that don’t lead to Machu Picchu is astounding. Most travellers are unaware of all the beauty Cusco and its’ surrounding area has to offer, and do not dedicate enough time to the then capital of the Incan Empire.
Not a fan of beaten treks or just want to hang around Cusco whilst acclimatising your body to the altitude prior to visiting Machu Picchu? The city is surprisingly captivating, although the hills will tire you out. I was more exhausted walking to Wild Rover than after the three-day Jungle Trek. There are plenty of things to do in and around Cusco, from artisanal markets, AV bike rides, salt pans, several Rainbow Mountains, the famous Sacred Valley, tasting the Peruvian delicatessen cuy to a visit to Saqsaywaman or sexy woman as most tourists refer to the ancient ruins, making me believe for a while that it was the correct pronunciation. Trying to figure out what to do, eat, where to stay, and let your hair loose? Read on to find out.
Let’s be honest you probably do want to visit Machu Picchu.
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WHAT TO DO IN CUSCO WHILE ACCLIMATING
Explore the Ruins Around Town.
This is a cultural activity you can easily do on your own in the city of Cusco if you have a day to spare. With only one ticket for S/ 70 you can visit Puka Pukara, Tambomachay, Q’enqo, and Saqsaywaman – you can’t unsee it now, am I right?
Take a fifteen-minute walk from the town centre to Saqsaywaman a citadel built by the Incas. Here you can purchase your ticket and find the best city view and somewhat underwhelming ruins of something that once was. The next stop is the archaeological site Q’enqo. This was my favourite place out of the four. You can climb up a rock for a view over the city and walk through “caves”. It can be reached through a twenty-minute walk along fields with a few small restaurants on the way. From there we took a collectivo for around S/ 1 from near the entrance to Tambomachay another slightly underwhelming archaeological site where I found myself surrounded by a herd of sheep with no escaping.
The final stop Puka Pukara is a short walk from Tambomachay, you can see it to your right at the entrance. Once you are done exploring you can take a collectivo back to town. On your way back you need to be careful to get off in time. Tell the driver that you want to get off near the old town. It seems they don’t drive directly into town and rather drop you off at the top of the hill near Saqsaywaman.
Explore the Town.
The only free experience you can find in Cusco is walking the cobbled streets of the Old Town alongside locals dressed in colourful traditional clothing. I have been to more interesting cities, but it makes for a good day time activity. Walk around the prime spot for carved wooden balconies, restaurants, cafes, and tourist agencies, the Plaza de Armas. Here you can admire the Catedral the Cusco and the Iglesia De La Compañia De Jesús. Then head towards the Plazoleta or Mercado de San Blas through the cute neighbourhood with Spanish colonial architecture, blue doors, and window frames.
Shopping.
Head to the markets for Peruvian food and artisanal shopping. Cusco is popular for Alpaca products and the best place to purchase souvenirs and gifts. The best markets are Mercado San Pedro for food and artisanal products, and Centro Artesanal Cusco, and Mercado San Blas for artisanal products only. All markets can be found within walking distance from the historic centre.
You can even get gorgeous customisable weaved products for value for money from shops on Santa Clara around the corner from Plaza San Francisco. If you need hiking gear you also have plenty of choices from branded stores to cheaper ‘rip-off’ versions around Plaza de Armas.
ACTIVITIES AROUND CUSCO
Moray and Maras Salt Pans.
Your opportunities for activities in the Sacred Valley are endless, from horse riding, paragliding, to river rafting. If you want a mix of action and nature you can take an ATV tour to Moray and the Maras salt pans.
The salt pans can be visited by public transport and collectivos from Avenida Grau to Urubamba where you need to change. Once you have reached Maras, you can then enjoy the hillside covered in thousands of individual salt pools. For some time now you are only allowed to overlook the salt pans from a viewpoint, rather than walk through them.
Then take a 15-minute taxi to Moray and its archaeological site mostly know for the terraced circular depressions. There are day tours to the Sacred Valley including Moray and the salt pans costing about S/ 60. There is also a hike through the colourful fields of Moray to the Maras salt mines.
Ausangate.
I came to Peru for this incredible trek. Yes, I know how controversial of me, wanting to skip Macchu Picchu and climbing up a mountain no one has heard of instead. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t on my side, the trek was closed, and I could only marvel at it from a distance. At least I saved a lot of money visiting – surprise, surprise – Machu Picchu instead. On the marvellous Ausangate trek you will be visiting seven lagoons, hike through the Red Valley, and visit the infamous Vinicunca Rainbow Mountain.
This trek can be done without a guide but be prepared! If you would rather have a shepherd and guide than you can also opt for a one, two, four, or five-day trek. Like I said, prices are on the expensive side with one to two days costing approximately $130, four days an incredible sum of $330, and four days $390. Fallen off your chair? This activity will kill your travel budget, I know, but I am sure it is worth it. Prices include camping equipment, a cook, and horses transporting equipment. Bear in mind that during the rainy season the treks are often closed. I will return to Peru for this trek, so maybe see you there!
Rainbow Mountains.
Most people are unaware that there are several rainbow mountains around Cusco. Palccoyo, the less known alternative is a good option if you visit during the rainy season. Vinicunca can often be covered in snow, due to its higher altitude. Palccoyo is cheaper to visit, less overrun with tourists, and there are several rainbow-striped mountains right next to each other. You are wondering why everyone heads to Vinicunca instead? Me too! There are tours you can book or take a two-hour bus to Checacupe from where you need to continue your journey to the village Palccoyo for approximately 30 minutes to embark on a one hour hike to the rainbow mountains.
Vinicunca was covered by snow until 2015, but thanks to global warming it melted, and we can now admire the mountain’s seven colours. Or on a good day for Pachamama you will find it mostly covered in snow like me. The rainbow mountain has fast become Cusco’s second most popular attraction. God knows why, as the pickup is between 3 – 4 am.
My day tour to Vinicunca and the Red Valley included breakfast, a buffet lunch, and an informative guide who handed out altitude medication to help with respiration. On our way back to Cusco we learned more about the mountain’s history and comparable rainbow mountains. Argentina has a fourteen coloured rainbow mountain! Who knew this world was so colourful! The day trip costs around S/ 100 if you book through Pariwana hostel, which I can recommend, or S/ 70 plus S/ 20 for the entry fee if you book through Salkantay agency.
Choquequirao.
Are you looking for outdoor activities in Cusco that are anything but Machu Picchu, but still want to see an Inca site that is less overrun? Then embark on a three, four, or five-day trek to Choquequirao. The trek itself is similar landscapes to the Jungle Inca Trek to Machu Picchu, and the site itself is a comparable structure and architecture to the new world wonder. Pretty much all tourist agencies in Cusco will be providing tours to this place, including camping equipment, a cook and horses transporting the equipment.
WHERE TO EAT
Cusco is full of delicious food surprises and is catering for all you vegetarians and vegans. All you “normal people”, as Peruvians like to call the meat-eaters, might want to extend your palette and try some Alpaca or guinea pig.
Mercado San Pedro.
Want to have Peruvian food and eat like a local? Then head to San Pedro food market, walking distance from the main square Plaza de las Armas. The smell is something to get used to, but portions are massive. Even I had leftovers and I eat way more than you expect from a tiny girl. Plazoleta San Pedro, Calle Santa Clara, Cusco 08002
Jack’s Café.
The one catering to all your cravings if you are British anyway. Head to Jack’s Cafe for shepherd’s pie or a fry up, yes, a proper decent fry up with hash browns and all. There are also vegetarian options available. Choqechaka 509, Cusco 08002
Le Buffet Francés.
The food is delicious and if you have missed a Raclette than this is the place for you, although it is Andean don’t expect Alp cheese. Atoqsayk’uchi 616, Cusco 08003
WHERE TO STAY
Skylodge Adventure Suites.
This is not in Cusco, but it is too special not to mention. Staying at the Skylodge Suites is an adventure in itself. You have to climb to reach your lodge attached to the side of a rock in the Sacred Valley. This adventure is not cheap, and I would have spent most of my time terrified of getting close to the window, but nonetheless, it is on my to-do list. Pista 224 km. Urubamba-Ollantaytambo, Cusco
Pariwana Hostel.
One of my favourite hostels in South America. The beds are comfortable and have individual plugs. They offer a big buffet breakfast, delicious food, there are bars, a TV room, and plenty of activities to attend to. This hostel is a perfect mix of fun, and quite rooms. To top it all, there is a tourist information office inside the hostel, whose prices are surprisingly in-line with other reliable tour operators in town. They even prepare a small packed breakfast if your tour starts in the early hours.
Party Hostels.
Of course, you also have your usual party hostels in Cusco. Stay at Wild Rover for free shots and Loki for a dance on the bar. Wild Rover has one of the best views over Cusco, especially at night.
WHERE TO PARTY
Not tired yet and wondering what activities Cusco has to offer at night? When you think of Cusco you wouldn’t naturally think of bustling nightlife. As the most touristy town in Peru, it has a lot to offer. That is if you like to drop low to some reggaeton.
Los Perros.
My favourite bar/ restaurant in Cusco, due to its relaxed vibe, good cocktails, and slightly controversial wallpaper – look twice, and then enjoy watching people’s reactions. Tecsecocha 474, Cusco 08002
Chango Club.
This seemed to be everyone’s go-to club, mostly because it is open until the sun has risen. Music is the usual reggaeton, and the crowd is a mix of locals, Peruvian and international tourists. Tecsecocha 429, Cusco 08002
Hostels with Bars.
Pariwana is one of the less wild ‘party’ hostels. They have two bars, karaoke, and quiz nights, but things will not get out of control as they do at the infamous Wild Rover and Loki to be found up the hill away from the main square.
WHAT TO PACK
Cusco can be very cold and wet during the rainy season from November to April. In Cusco, the most rain can be expected from January to March. Although, it can also get hot and sunny during this time. I would recommend sun cream all year round, as well as a warm jacket, rain jacket, and layering pieces.
ARRIVED BY PLANE?
When you arrive at the airport you will be greeted by many taxi drivers keen to overcharge you for a ride into town. If you want to save money on a taxi, turn to your right then follow the path which will turn left onto the main road. A taxi from here will be much cheaper or take a collective from the “bus station” if you want to travel like the locals and only pay around S/ 0.80.
Did I do a good job of sharing my love for this city? Also did I mention that cuy is a Peruvian delicatessen? Still no clue what it is? It’s guinea pig, sorry veggies and vegans!
Now go ahead and explore! Try not to lose your towel.
