Sandy beaches aren’t the first thing that comes to mind when thinking of the small South American country. However, when coast hopping Ecuador you will discover anything from remote surf spots, the poor man’s Galapagos to a party town that never sleeps. Well, unless it rains. All this can be most enjoyed from December to April, the best time to visit Canoa, Puerto Lopez, Olon, and Montañita.
Here is where an iguana almost took a big dump on me, I started surfing, and learned foam parties are not a thing from the past. Trying to figure out where to go on the Ecuadorian coast, eat, stay, and let your hair loose? Read on to find out.
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CANOA: THE QUITE SURF VILLAGE
Are you looking for a beach village off the beaten trek with good swell? Then add Canoa onto your coast hopping Ecuador list for an endless, mostly empty beach. The coastal village is nothing special but Canoa is perfect for relaxing on the beach for a couple of days without distractions. The waves close to the shore are small making them ideal for learning to surf, and on a windy day, kitesurfing is practised here. The place itself can be sleepy although there are restaurants and laidback bars along the beach. The closest ATM can be found in Bahia.
Where To Eat In Canoa.
There are many local restaurants along the beachfront selling affordable food including ceviche.
Restaurante Samay.
Enjoy dinner on the first floor whilst watching the sun disappear into the ocean. This restaurant has a varied menu with vegan and vegetarian options. But most importantly it has a decent happy hour! Malecon de Canoa
Where To Stay In Canoa.
Coconut Hotel is situated a twenty-minute walk from the town centre. This hostel is directly on a beach you will have to yourself. There is a shared kitchen and surfboards for rent. Buses into town cost $ 0.50 and if you want to join the lazy club taxis are $ 2. I know we sure did a few times.
PUERTO LOPEZ: REMOTE BEACHES AND WILDLIFE
This fishing town is far from pretty and seems unappealing at first. However, the day trip opportunities make it a must-visit when coast hopping Ecuador. There are scuba dive centres for anyone who wants to swim in the depths of the ocean with manta rays, turtles, and if you get lucky a whale.
Day Trip: Isla Plata.
Out of all the poor man’s Galapagos, I have come across this budget tour seems to be the best alternative to the wildlife paradise. No other option allows you to discover wildlife from a boat, whilst snorkelling, and by hiking across the island. Animals that can be spotted are blue-footed boobies, turtles, iguanas, rays, and dolphins. The best time to visit is during humpback whale season from June to October. Although, my friends spotted one of the humble giants in November. A tour including lunch costs around $ 35 but there are many tour operators on the Malecón to compare prices. Tours start at 9.30 am and return at 4.30 pm.
Day Trip: Los Frailes.
Would you rather spend the day on Ecuador’s renown most beautiful beach instead? The remote half-moon shaped bay does have a certain beauty, although it doesn’t compare to the Galapagos white sand beaches. Los Frailes is out of town and on a weekday you will share the beach with only a handful of people and countless crab-created sand balls dancing in the wind.
The beach has nothing to offer other than the deep blue ocean and the possibility to hike through a tropical dry forest. The one-hour trail starts along the road. The path then leads through the Machalilla National Park past two even more remote beaches. Ensure to walk along them to continue the trail to Los Frailes. As someone who doesn’t enjoy extended sunbathing, partly because my ginger skin is unforgiving, the beach wasn’t exciting. Bring enough water and snacks as purchase options are limited. There is also barely any shade and small fees are charged for the shower and toilets.
How To Get There.
Take a tuk-tuk ($ 1) from the town centre to Puerto Lopez Terminal. Then take any bus towards Mantra ($ 0.50) for approximately 15 min. Let the bus driver know that you travel to Los Frailes to be dropped off opposite the entrance. Then take a tuk-tuk ($ 2.00) or hike. To return flag down a bus from the main road. Buses run every 20 minutes.
Montañita: SURF AND PARTY TOWN
Montañita is the only Ecuadorian beach town everyone has heard of, and Ecuador’s answer to Peru’s Máncora. The town is sleepy on weekdays during the off-season. Travel here on Saturday, Friday, or Monday for the best parties at house club Lost Beach. Otherwise hostels alternate every night in having an “open bar” and there are foam parties and fire “shows” at Poco Loco. Cana Grill is another hotspot for cheap cocktails and dancing. There even is a prison inspired club called Catraz.
If you aren’t hungover you can take surf lessons for $ 15-20 for 2 h or rent a board for $ 5/h or $8/2h. On a good day, the breaks can reach up to three metres making this beach town ideal for experienced surfers. There are yoga classes every day for only $ 8 at Yoga Montañita. There are also many cute shops to update your wardrobe. Are you surprised that this is a popular spot for volunteering and Spanish school? No, me neither.
Day Trip: Olon.
This tiny village 30-minutes North of Montañita is the best alternative to Canoa. Olon is rarely visited by tourists making it perfect for uncrowded surfing. There are accommodations but they are more expensive than in Montañita. You can reach Olon with any bus heading towards Puerto Lopez for $ 1.50. Come prepared as there are no cashpoints.
Where To Eat In Montañita.
Due to its popularity with backpackers, Montañita’s restaurants are mostly overpriced. Although, there are many street food vendors. I lived off $ 1 cheese toasties from food stalls on Calle J. Don’t judge!
Amor Infinito.
We had an incredible budget multi-course meal at this vegan restaurant on the beachfront. It felt like we were eating at someone’s house. Reservations must be made at least two hours beforehand and a deposit is required. This sounds sketchy but the food was delicious. Beach cabana next to the river, Montañita 241754
Omkar.
Here I had eaten an authentic curry after dreaming about them for two months and it did not disappoint. This small outdoor restaurant offers the most delicious Indian food. Calle De Los Cócteles Y Guido Chiriboga Parra, Montañita
Mad’s Tex Mex.
Just out of town and close to our hostel the falafel wraps and tacos become our go-to everyday meals. The food is affordable and tasty. Ruta del Spondylus 43, Montañita
Where To Stay Montañita.
The Hidden House Hostel has a huge outdoor space with a bar, hammocks, iguana filled trees, and a kitchen. Occasionally there was the craziest pug making us laugh to the point of tears. My friend even created a GIF!
MOMPICHE
Although I haven’t travelled to Mompiche, I do think this place in the North of Ecuador is worth mentioning. Here you can find plankton, a black sand beach, and point break surfing. This is the quietest and off the beaten trek out of all the places, don’t expect entertainment or ATMs.
Now go ahead and explore! Try not to lose your towel.